A How-to: Gypsy Stonesetting
After my last post regarding Gypsy stonesetting (also known as flush-setting), thought I’d share the steps my friend and fellow metalsmith, Ginger Meek Allen, demonstrated as I learned how to set a stone Gypsy-style.
First, you must know the anatomy of a gemstone in order to be able to decipher some of the instructions. This image was downloaded from the Gemological Institute of America’s website.
Gypsy-setting, Ginger style
1. Select a well-cut stone, viewing with a loupe to study its cut – a straight pavilion is easier to set.
2. Measure the depth of the stone and select metal that is deep enough hold the stone.
3. Use a center punch to make a dent in the metal in the stone’s location. Using a drill bit smaller than the width of the stone, drill carefully all the way through the metal using drill press or Flex-Shaft held dead level. The drilled hole should be less than ¾ the width of the stone.
4. Flip the metal over and touch the drill bit to the hole, to remove and bits of metal and create a clean looking reverse.
5. Select stone setting bur the width of the stone. Check this by holding the bur up to the stone to check the stone’s width against the bur.
6. Place drill bit over the previously drilled hole, and drill down just deep enough so the girdle of the stone sits below the surface of the metal by about .5 mm, up to 1 mm. Not a lot!
7. Place stone in setting and check fit, re-drilling bit by bit as needed for a good, level seat. A ball bur or bud bur may be used to refine the seat if the stone’s girdle has roundness to it or if the stone isn’t seating properly.
8. Press the stone into position using a piece of brass or copper rod (or horn or bone).
9. Use clear adhesive tape to cover stone, then masking tape to cover the metal on either side of the stone, strapping it to a tiny anvil or other appropriate metal work surface.
10. Create a “moat” of metal around the stone: Using a tiny punch held straight down, and chasing hammer, gently tap around the stone at 12 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock then 3 o’clock, and the spaces in between, alternating sides as you go (as one would in cabochon setting); check progress by lifting edge of the tape from time to time to make sure things are on track.
Silver strapped to anvil with stone ready for setting
11. The moat now needs to “flow over” the girdle of the stone to hold the stone in place: Hold the punch at a slight angle pointed towards the stone, and go all around the stone again, in the same manner as above; check progress and continue tapping gently around the stone until you are assured that the stone is hugged by the metal.
12. Remove the tape. Burnish the rim of metal near the stone using a steel burnisher. Do not touch the steel to the stone.
Sweat Test: turn the work over and insert a toothpick into the reverse side opening and push – if the stone remains in place, you’re done setting. Clean your work and admire it! If it pops out, flip your work back over, re-secure it with tape and continue tapping and testing until your stone is secure.
Enjoy your beautiful gypsy-set work of art!
Gypsy-Set Green Sapphire
Go for it!
@admin
Thanks Nancy! I have a dapping set and will give it a try. I will email you a picture if I a sucessful at it.
Mindy, that is a great question. The punch is actually a dapping punch, which usually are sold in sets of several (a round steel rod with various sized steel “balls” on top). I used the smallest one in my set and held it vertically to create the “moat” around the stone. The same punch was used to bring the metal up over the stone.
Tip: If you experience problems getting the metal to lip over the edge of the stone, be sure the punch is as close to the stone as possible without actually touching it. It helps to angle it in a bit towards the stone.
Another Tip: For making the lip over the stone, you might even try a nail that has had the tip blunted, rounded, and sanded to a 400 grit polish. I’ve used this with success when I found that my punch wasn’t getting close enough in places.
Final Tip: Extreme magnification helps!
Best wishes! I’ll publish photos of anyone who tries this technique. Go for it.
Nancy
your instructions are very good, but I have one question. What does the punch look like? Is it the same one you center punched with? I wish I lived closer to you.